Why I Would Buy The Echo PB251 Blower

Not for beating your husband above the head (a hammer leaves distinguishing marks) but for lots of projects around the residence. Use fine grades, with white spirit as a lubricant, for taking the gloss off sealers and varnishes ahead of re-coating. Their 8 step process integrated instruction to overcome issues inside departments. Various grades are offered. One of the other quite clear benefits of cordless equipment is the truth you arent trailing around cords, a clear well being and safety advantage. While most fasteners may possibly be intended for particular projects, they will work reasonably well for most purposes. Assorted sizes of drill bits, spade bits, hole saws, boring bits and countersink bits are a should-have for projects that are both big and compact.

As a corporate tactic, their focus is on the concentration strategy, generating substantial end, and high superior tools. The solution is to be sure our engineering department is on top rated of the market place trends in battery technologies and to carry on to increase our cordless line. A battery charger contains separate internal wire windings, but no moving parts. Be careful, be pretty careful with table saws. The prime of the screwdriver characteristics a button which enables you to lock the head into position and the handle has a soft grip and superior still is made for the smaller hand. If youre cutting frames or molding in miter cuts you may well appear into a compound miter saw. Speculation runs wild and goes so far as to suggest that the power tools that could have sparked the blaze might initially have triggered a smoldering ember, not an instant blaze. Being safety conscious is the essential to getting security good results. If you have to exert as well considerably force, you almost certainly dont have the proper sized tool for the job, or maybe the attachment, eg blade or bit, is as well dull.

Other batteries consistently shed power as you perform. But, these rechargeable batteries also have their personal life spans, and will require to be replaced at a particular point in time. Remember, the good quality of the battery you use is just as important as the high quality of your power tool. Finally, make positive you really know how to use the power tools you acquire. Keep it for rough operate, as the disc constantly cuts across the grain of the wood, leaving marks which are hard to take away. They can take much more abuse in tougher functioning conditions than non-name brands. They also make sure that nails are seated exactly exactly where theyre supposed to be, so you dont end up possessing to pull them out and re-nail. Producers of leaf blowers have had to believe very carefully about the new laws relating to noise and air pollution released from gas driven power tools. The power tool marketplace delivers a wide variety of price tag ranges and an even larger number of brands. Power tools can fling debris into the air at incredibly substantial speeds that can cause critical injury or even death. Their research and development approaches use a item development, initial mover approach.

A household owner could purchase 3 non-name brand power tools for the value of one name brand power tool. Better be safe than sorry when using power tools. Constantly pushing your power tools to their maximum power range is a great way to put on them out! The sabersaw, called a scroll saw or jigsaw, is a power tool youll use much more than you know. Leave the battery and power tool to cool for about ten minutes.

If youre a homeowner, you know how significant it is to do particular repair or remodel projects about your property yourself. So it is significant to boost the technologies level. Never reach above a table saw blade. This style provides eye protection entirely around the eye while defending the sides and eliminating the have to have for side shields. Look for a sabersaw with a stable, cast base-plate that doesnt move when twisted utilizing medium pressure. This implies that the 18v tools usually function the most recent technologies, provide the greatest overall performance and represent the very best worth for revenue when compared with other voltage systems. The next step in the method is as a group, rank the ideas that are brought to the table from this brain storming session. Lift out the fuse with your fingers or use a screwdriver.

Truth About Abs Review

Read on to discover facts about this weight loss program that you will not read anywhere else! DON’T PURCHASE TRUTH ABOUT ABS BEFORE YOU READ THIS.

Mike Geary’s ‘The Truth About Abs’ is a hugely popular weight loss program. Mike is a personal trainer and nutritionist. His weight loss system focuses on losing belly fat which is the most common fat.

The Truth About Abs program centers on the principle that weight loss starts with good nutrition, not exercise. The information about nutrition you will find in Truth About Abs has impressed more than a few physicians. It is so accurate and scientifically proven that it demarks itself for the hundreds of other weight loss programs.

In Truth About Abs, you will learn that to have six pack abs does NOT require intense workouts and abs routine. You don’t even need any special ab machine. You will find a few key exercises that effectively builds and cuts your six pack abs. The exercises are very simple and very clearly described.

Obviously, for optimum results you should combine a good nutrition with some exercises. In the Truth About Abs, Mike Geary provides a simple meal plan outline that you can adapt to your own taste and to your own schedule.

To conclude, I’m extremely confident in recommending this program for weight loss and light muscle building. The exercises are clearly explained and are very simple (they do not require special equipment). The meal plan outline is perfect for anyone with a busy schedule or with particular taste in food. From all the weight loss programs available, the Truth About Abs is the one I always recommend to my personal friends.

How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter

Testing a power supply manually with a multimeter is one of two ways to test a power supply in a computer.

A properly executed PSU test using a multimeter should confirm that the power supply is in good working order or if should be replaced.

Note: These instructions apply to a standard ATX power supply. Almost all modern consumer power supplies are ATX power supplies.

Difficulty: Hard

Time Required: Testing a power supply manually using a multimeter will take 30 minutes to 1 hour to complete

How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter

  1. Manually testing a power supply involves working closely with high voltage electricity. Important: Do not skip this step! Safety should be your primary concern during a power supply test and there are several points you should be aware of before starting this process.
  2. Open your case. In short, this involves turning off the computer, removing the power cable and unplugging anything else connecting to the outside of your computer.To make testing your power supply easier, you should also move your disconnected and open case somewhere easy to work like on a table or other flat, non-static surface.
  3. Unplug the power connectors from each and every internal deviceTip: An easy way to confirm that each power connector is unplugged is to work from the bundle of power cables coming from the power supply inside the PC. Each group of wires should terminate to one or more power connectors. Note: There is no need to remove the actual power supply unit from the computer nor is there any reason to disconnect any data cables or other cables not originating from the power supply.
  4. Group all of the power cables and connectors together for easy testing.As you’re organizing the power cables, I highly recommend rerouting them and pulling them as far away from the computer case as possible. This will make it as easy as possible to test the power supply connections.
  5. Short out pins 15 and 16 on the 24-pin motherboard power connector with a small piece of wire.You’ll probably need to take a look at the ATX 24 pin 12V Power Supply Pinouttable to determine the locations of these two pins.
  6. Confirm that the power supply voltage switch located on the power supply is properly set for your country. Note: In the US, the voltage should be set to 110V/115V. Check the Foreign Electricity Guide for voltage settings in other countries.
  7. Plug the PSU into a live outlet and flip the switch on the back of the power supply. Assuming that the power supply is at least minimally functional and that you’ve properly shorted the pins in Step 5, you should hear the fan begin to run. Important: Just because the fan is running does not mean that your power supply is supplying power to your devices properly. You’ll need to continue testing to confirm that. Note: Some power supplies do not have a switch on the back of the unit. If the PSU you’re testing does not, the fan should begin to run immediately after plugging the unit into the wall.
  8. Turn on your multimeter and turn the dial to the VDC (Volts DC) setting.Note: If the multimeter you’re using does not have an auto-ranging feature, set the range to 10.00V.
  9. First we’ll test the 24 pin motherboard power connector:Connect the negative probe on the multimeter (black) to any ground wired pin and connect the positive probe (red) to the first power line you want to test. The 24 pin main power connector has +3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, -5 VDC (optional), +12 VDC, and -12 VDC lines across multiple pins.You’ll need to reference the ATX 24 pin 12V Power Supply Pinout for the locations of these pins.I recommend testing every pin on the 24 pin connector that carries a voltage. This will confirm that each line is supplying the proper voltage and that each pin is properly terminated.
  10. Document the number that the multimeter shows for each voltage tested and confirm that the reported voltage is within approved tolerance. You can reference Power Supply Voltage Tolerances for a list of proper ranges for each voltage.Are any voltages outside the approved tolerance? If yes, replace the power supply. If all voltages are within tolerance, your power supply is not defective. Important: If your power supply passes your tests, I highly recommend you continue testing to confirm that it can operate properly under a load. If you’re not interested in testing your PSU further, skip to Step 15.
  11. Turn off the switch on the back of the power supply and unplug it from the wall.
  12. Reconnect all of your internal devices to power. Also, don’t forget to remove the short you created in Step 5 before plugging back in the 24 pin motherboard power connector. Note: The biggest mistake made at this point is forgetting to plug everything back in. Aside from the main power connector to the motherboard, don’t forget to provide power to your hard drive(s), optical drive(s), and floppy drive. Some motherboards require an additional 4, 6, or 8 pin power connector and some video cards need dedicated power too.
  13. Plug in your power supply, flip the switch on the back if you have one, and then turn on your computer as you normally do with the power switch on the front of the PC. Note: Yes, you’ll be running your computer with the case cover removed which is perfectly safe as long as you’re careful. Note: It’s not common, but if your PC does not turn on with the cover removed, you may have to move the appropriate jumper on the motherboard to allow this. Your computer or motherboard manual should explain how to do this.
  14. Repeat Step 9 and Step 10, testing and documenting the voltages for other power connectors like the 4 pin peripheral power connector, the 15 pin SATA power connector, and the 4 pin floppy power connector. Note: The pinouts necessary to test these power connectors with a multimeter can be found in my ATX Power Supply Pinout Tables list.Just as with the 24 pin motherboard power connector, if any voltages fall too far outside the listed voltage you should replace the power supply.
  15. Once your testing is complete, turn off and unplug the PC and then put the cover back on the case.Assuming your power supply tested good or you’ve replaced your power supply with a new one, you can now turn your computer back on and/or continue troubleshooting the problem you are having.

Methods for Increasing Cargo Room

Cargo containers are huge containers created for the commercial transportation and storage purposes. These gigantic containers are manufactured from metal structures to support goods, freight or perhaps the factory stock that will be transported in one place to another for business reasons. Cargo containers can be purchased in many of dimensions for holding virtually every form of manufactured goods. The roll-out of these containers in the business world changed ab muscles countenance in the trade so that it is very convenient and economical. Listed here are tips for increasing cargo room

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The trading business has boomed up because of these cargo containers since they have ended in the increased efficiency that will come because of the faster resources of the cargo through air and shipping services. It is possible to transport the bulk of the stock in one spot to another in one go with the help of these containers which will help in lowering the expenses of transportation. They secure your goods from damage or rusts as well as the ill-effects of weather. A cargo container do not just refer becoming a container meant for the shipping purpose nonetheless it represent the entire selection of storage containers which can be employed for assorted tasks like storing useful items, shipping goods or transportation of material through any other medium.

In terms of the question of renting a cargo container to keep the related articles on the job site arises, they turn out to be a great help in storing your small business equipments. These large containers generally stock things such as raw materials, tools and gears, emergency equipments as well as other apparatuses. The firm structure of the containers enables you to store any kind of goods material plus any quantity. They are available in different lengths however to save miniature tools on job locations which are exposed to use on everyday it’s best to rent smaller containers which will occupy relatively lesser space and it is easily portable and accessible.

It will always be useful to rent a cargo since it is very costly to buy such heavy articles and the capital thus saved can always supply for some other more fruitful purposes. There is certainly non-recourse of damage or it being outdated can there be as you don’t own the container try to has the option of switching on to the other rental deal. You should look at the shape and size in the container according to the commodity to become kept in it, before coming into the rental agreement.

As you rent a cargo container you’ll want to make payments for that delivery as well as the picking up of the cargo. Identified by the factors of ISO, Mobile Mini offers you the greatest variety of containers for storing up all sorts of cargo material which is also provide the very best of renting services. So if you are searching for a space to hold your material but running lacking space, the cargo container rental services are the best remedy that solves your trouble.

Flower Petal Wall Decor Art

It’s hard to find large scale wall decor on a budget. I have been looking for the perfect piece to hang above the dresser in my girl’s room with no luck. So I decided to make something myself! I wanted something whimsical, colorful and girly and I came up with this pretty flower petal wall decor art.

This flower petal wall decor art was inexpensive, simple to make and it adds a pretty pop of color to your home. Would you like to make one too?

Supplies needed to make your own flower petal art:

18 x 24 Inch Blank White Canvas
Satin Rose Petals in White, Pink and Coral
Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks

wall decor art

Begin your flower petal art by painting the canvas if desired. I chose to keep mine white. Using a pencil, mark concentric circles to act as placement guides. Then begin gluing petals down one by one starting in the center.

Each new round of petals should be glued under the previous round. Gradually blend the three petal colors together to get an ombre look.

When working with a lot of hot glue, I find it helpful to keep an ice pack nearby in case I get any hot glue on my fingertips.

I started my circle halfway off the canvas and had individual petals floating on the blank edge, but I think it would look great to start the flower in the center and have it fill the entire canvas all the way to the edges. The options are endless!

This was such a fun and easy craft project. The whole thing took me less than an hour to make and I love how it turned out.

If you find yourself with extra flower petals left over after your project is finished, consider using them to make this flower petal jewelry holder. The two pieces would look great displayed together!

The Grandfather — Funny T-Shirt Spoofing The Godfather #3 at Amazon

The Godfather films made a major mark in the American consciousness, and then The Sopranos contributed its own echo to that earlier take on the mafia. The Godfather — with its hits, horse heads, blood, and bile — was no laughing matter, of course. The Sopranos gave some chuckles but was deadly serious too. Finally, there’s some attire to take the edge off the whole Godfather thing– the Grandfather funny T-shirt from the clever peeps at Ann Arbor T-Shirt Company. It’s clever enough, in fact, to be the number 3 bestseller at Amazon for Best Sellers In Clothing as Father’s Day approaches.

Grandfather-Godfather-funny-T-Shirt

The Grandfather funny T-shirt takes the classic film logo — you can almost hear the music — and with a little switch turns it into a genial joke, making a grandfather out of a godfather. Pretty much every review at Amazon reads something like this: “We bought this for my father for my daughters and he loved it!”

What is Decorative Concrete Engraving

Decorative Concrete Engraving – The process of turning existing, dull, gray concrete into works of art!

Concrete Scoring

Simple projects by a skilled tradesman using basic tools such as a circular saw or an angle grinder with an abrasive masonry blade. A narrow kerf-1/8th inch is typical. Generally less detailed with reduced accuracy. May be dusty.

Concrete Sawing

Traditionally, sawing concrete involves crack control joints or cutting for demolition using gasoline powered equipment. Mostly used out-of-doors because of carbon monoxide emissions from the engine. The process typically requires water as a coolant. Maximum 1/8th inch wide kerfs are standard. Accurate depth control is limited. Straight unwavering lines require a highly skilled operator.

decorative-concrete

Concrete Engraving

Concrete engraving is the act of remodeling existing (cured) concrete by cutting patterns and texture into the surface. Engraved designs and patterns simulate building materials such as brick, tile, stone, pavers or a ranging variety of graphic elements. Geometric patterns with straight, circular or serpentine lines and custom designs are cut directly into the surface of the concrete. Decorative concrete engraving adds depth and dimension plus it is commonly used as a color separation technique.

KaleidoCrete tools allow you to engrave custom designs into existing concrete surfaces

Several tools have been designed specifically for or adapted for concrete engraving. Intersecting lines and graphic elements are easily controlled with precision tools which have appropriate cutters. Dust control, for many reasons, is a necessity. Most engraving tools have shrouds and guards which attach to standard shop vacuums. Pneumatic tools have combination water/vacuum dust control. The bottom of the engraved area is as visually important as the surface, making accurate depth control essential. Engraved kerfs may range from very narrow to very wide, depending on the design parameters. Kerf depths are typically 1/16th, 3/32nds or the 1/8th inch deep. The depth of the engraved lines can be purely aesthetic or functional. A deeper engraving is required in order to hold sufficient amounts of an epoxy or grout in the recessed area.

Concrete engraving tools, whether they are pneumatic or electric, cut the surface with various methods including abrasive diamond blades, sand blasting, shot blasting, micro-rod impaction and reciprocating stylus. There are tools used in combination with design templates to achieve exacting graphics and artistic results. Templates can be made of a variety of materials including single use adhesive backed vinyl or reusable non-marking plastic. Engraving tools can be controlled with tracking systems to make perfect circles, arcs or straight lines or to efficiently produce patterns like the brick.

Although tile patterned flooring is a common theme, engraving is used to reproduce or enlarge original artistic designs and graphics, restoration or makeover projects for vintage concrete, producing specialty logos, traffic warning symbols or textures, and thousands of patterns. Some patterns are used as decorative safety grooving.

The coloring of the cured concrete surface before engraving is typical. The coloring is accomplished by use of a variety of chemical agents, although reactive acid chemical stains, water based, solvated stains and/or concrete dyes are the most common.

Decorative concrete staining and engraving are perfect for businesses wanting to brand themselves

Where is it used?

Wherever there is concrete there is a great likelihood that it can be made more attractive. Locations include residential, commercial, industrial, recreational theme parks, or event center mezzanines. Engraving is found in both interior and exterior locations and is used both for practical reasons, and as a decorative concrete artistic expression.

Green Benefits

Existing concrete is an energy bank where huge amounts of fuel and man-hours are stored. Existing concrete contains the energy used to mine, manufacture and transport cement, aggregate and multiple other ingredients. Those ingredients are delivered to an energy consuming batch plant to be dumped into an energy consuming truck to transport to a job site where large amounts of fuel were consumed in preparation to place the concrete. Then more manpower with more fuel was consumed to form, pour and finish that same concrete. Existing concrete should be remodeled and enhanced in-situ to save fuel, energy, and manpower. Concrete, either new or vintage, can be reused and re-purposed more than once before the end of life.

Decorative concrete engraving is durable and can be used in commercial and high-traffic areas.

Concrete Requirements

The finishing requirement for engraving is any traditional finish; including skin-stamped concrete, broom finished, smooth trowel and salt finish. New concrete should be fully cured before the staining and engraving processes are applied.

Nearly any existing finish or surface can be used, although the pattern should complement the surface. For instance, a highly textured flagstone pattern will look best for pitted and/or cracked slabs, but a smooth tile look would not. Existing concrete should be thoroughly cleaned before processing.

Safety

Always practice safe working habits by using approved safety gear:

Impact Resistant (shatter proof) safety glasses / goggles
Face Shield
Hearing Protection (ear muffs)
Dust Particle Respirator (during engraving operations)
Chemical Vapor Respirator (during staining and sealing operations)
Required Tools

The design typically influences the choice of equipment and type of templates used (if needed). Templates may require temporary fastening in place to prevent movement during the application. Consult manufacturer’s directions for complete details and recommended applications.

The Mongoose 411 is one of Engrave-A-Crete’s most popular tools – no decorative concrete contractor should be without one.

Concrete Engraver(s)
Diamond blade based cutters
Specialty concrete engraving saws equipped with guidance components and layout accessories
Radius cutting tools and equipment
Reciprocal Impactor Tools / single or multi-point
Hard templates for pattern or design
Tracking devices
Drill and bits
Diamond blades
Straight edges
Chalk lines and soapstone
Air compressor
Safety equipment
Personal Protection
Job Site Protection

How to Make a Knife from an Old Saw Blade

Making a knife is a satisfying project on a number of levels. You’re creating a fundamental tool — one of the first tools ever made — and every time you pick it up, you’ll think, “Wow, I made this with my own hands.” And because you’re making the knife, you’ll be able to adjust its shape to fit your specific needs. The trickiest part of making a knife is the blade. If you have a forge handy, and can get your hands on some good tool steel, that’s great. If you don’t, you can still make a knife using an old Appalachian trick: recycling. That’s what we’ll do in this project.

Make a Knife from an Old Saw Blade

Old saw blades are almost always made from high-quality steel. You can find them in abundance at swap meets, garage sales, rummage sales, etc. The biggest advantage of using an old saw is the lack of metallurgy you need to do. The blade is already the right hardness for holding an edge, so you don’t need to treat the steel to make it a good knife. However, blanks cut from the saw are sometimes a little too flexible, but you can work around (or with) it.

The steel in this handmade knife will not be super-hard. This is not ideal because your knife will lose its edge quickly if you try to hack through wood, slice cardboard, or use it as a screwdriver. But, the good thing about softer steel is that you can bring it back to a razor-sharp edge with a few strokes of a sharpening stone. I actually prefer softer steel as I like a keen edge, and I carry a small sharpening stone with me. If you can shave your arm hair, your knife is sharp enough.

A knife can take many different forms and styles. In this project, we’re going to make what’s called a full-tang knife, meaning that the blade extends its full length into the handgrip of the knife. A partial tang extends only partially into the handle. A full-tang knife is, in my opinion, the easiest way to start making knives. It also produces a solid, sturdy knife that is less likely to break off at the handle.
full-tang-knife

Be nice to your knife and it will serve you well.

Materials List

Old saw blade
Thin cardboard manila files folder
Pencil
Scissors
Chalk or soapstone
Cold chisel
Hammer to drive the chisel
Sturdy piece of metal plate to use under your work
Metal files (coarse and fine)
Wire brush
Coarse (00) steel wool
Light oil (3-in-1 or gun oil)
Acetone
Cloth rags
Vise
C-clamps
Hardwood (oak, maple, cherry, etc.) for handle scales
Handsaw (Japanese pull saw preferred) if you’re cutting your own scales
Two-part Epoxy (slow-cure)
3/16″ brass rod
Power drill
3/16” sharp metal drill bit
Ball pein hammer
Duct tape
4-in-hand or a patternmaker’s rasp
Sandpaper (80 and 150-grit)
Cabinet scraper (optional)
Sharpening system of some sort
Ear plugs or hearing protection earmuffs

How to Make the Knife

Step 1: Prepare your pattern.

Step 1: Prepare your pattern. Your knife; your pattern! You can use an existing knife and trace it onto the cardboard, or you can design your own. In this case, I’m designing my own shape based on an old knife used by folks from the fur trade. Use a French curve to make sure your curves are consistent and more importantly, pretty. It’s a universal truth that a pretty shape in a tool or knife is a good shape.

Your knife; your pattern! You can use an existing knife and trace it onto the cardboard, or you can design your own. In this case, I’m designing my own shape based on an old knife used by folks from the fur trade. Use a French curve to make sure your curves are consistent and more importantly, pretty. It’s a universal truth that a pretty shape in a tool or knife is a good shape. When you get to the point that you’re happy with your shape, cut it out with a pair of scissors. In my knife design, I didn’t include a bolster or finger guard like in the illustration above.

Step 2: Transfer the design to your metal stock.

Step 2: Transfer the design to your metal stock. Using a piece of chalk or soapstone, trace your pattern onto the old saw blade. It doesn’t have to be perfect, as you will be using your eyes as you go, and you will be filing away any imperfections.

Using a piece of chalk or soapstone, trace your pattern onto the old saw blade. It doesn’t have to be perfect, as you will be using your eyes as you go, and you will be filing away any imperfections.

Step 3: Score the outline of your blade.

Step 3: Score the outline of your blade. Before you start this step, put on your hearing protection and place a large piece of metal plate under your metal stock. If you have an anvil, don’t work directly on it, as you would be driving hardened steel onto hardened steel. Something’s gotta give, and you really don’t want that something to break off the chisel and embed itself in your body somewhere.

Before you start this step, put on your hearing protection and place a large piece of metal plate under your metal stock. If you have an anvil, don’t work directly on it, as you would be driving hardened steel onto hardened steel. Something’s gotta give, and you really don’t want that something to break off the chisel and embed itself in your body somewhere.

Line up your chisel with your chalk line, take a deep breath and give it a good whack. It may not cut all the way through the blade, but the score it makes will suffice for now. Overlap the chisel marks as you work around the outline so there is one solid line, not a series of dashes. Take your time.

Step 4: Bust out the blade.

Step 4: Bust out the blade. Creating a sheer is what breaks the metal. I do this by placing the metal over the edge of an anvil and striking it with a hammer as close the scored line and the anvil as I can. If you don’t have an anvil, put your saw blade in a vise and tap the blade as close to the cut line as you can. If you did the chisel work well your knife blade should pop right out of the metal.

Creating a sheer is what breaks the metal. I do this by placing the metal over the edge of an anvil and striking it with a hammer as close the scored line and the anvil as I can. If you don’t have an anvil, put your saw blade in a vise and tap the blade as close to the cut line as you can. If you did the chisel work well your knife blade should pop right out of the metal.

Step 5: File the blade to shape.

The chisel doesn’t leave the best edge, so you’ll need to dress up the piece with a file. For this step, it’s important to remember that sheet metal is resonant (that’s why people play hand saws with a violin bow). The sound of filing a piece of sheet metal is one of true torture. Minimize this by clamping the blade as close the vise as you can and be sure to wear your hearing protection.

Note: Do not attempt to put an edge on your knife yet. The edge should be perpendicular to the sides of the blade. Look for a consistent stripe the width of the blade. That tells you’re ready for the next step.

Step 6: Start the handle.

Step 6: Start the handle. We’re making a full-tang knife, which means the blade edge will be visible all the way around the handle. We’ll do this by adding a scale of wood to each side of the handle. (A scale is a flat piece of wood, bone, or some other material that will create the handle.) You can purchase pre-made scales or make your own. In this instance, I’m making my own scales out of a few slats of oak trim I had laying around. Trace the outline of your blade onto your wood stock two times to create the shape of two scales. Then cut them out.

We’re making a full-tang knife, which means the blade edge will be visible all the way around the handle. We’ll do this by adding a scale of wood to each side of the handle. (A scale is a flat piece of wood, bone, or some other material that will create the handle.) You can purchase pre-made scales or make your own. In this instance, I’m making my own scales out of a few slats of oak trim I had laying around. Trace the outline of your blade onto your wood stock two times to create the shape of two scales. Then cut them out.

Step 7: Clean and polish your blank.

Step 7: Clean your blade. Clean the handle portion of your blank with steel wool and a little light oil (gun oil or 3-in-1 works great). After it’s clean (but not necessarily completely shiny), clean off the blank with some acetone to remove all traces of oil. Mixing oil and epoxy don’t work. You can get an idea of what the metal looks like from this image.

Clean your blank with steel wool and a little light oil (gun oil or 3-in-1 works great). After it’s clean (but not necessarily completely shiny), clean off the blank with some acetone to remove all traces of oil. Mixing oil and epoxy don’t work. You can get an idea of what the metal looks like from this image. Remember, no oils left or your scales won’t bond to the blank. You can do as much or as little as you want with this step. If you want your knife to have a more rustic look, use a little oil and steel wool (00, or double-aught, which means double zero). Steel wool comes in 00, 000, and 0000. The quadruple aught is used for fine polishing such as removing rust from a gun barrel. The 00 is fine for a knife unless you’re really meticulous. I prefer to leave a little color in this type of rustic knife.

Step 8: Set up for your rivets.

Step 8: Set up for your rivets. Rivets are attractive and will strengthen your knife. Do it right and you wouldn’t need epoxy, but I like belts and suspenders.

Rivets are attractive and will strengthen your knife. Do it right and you wouldn’t need epoxy, but I like belts and suspenders.

You will end up with three rivets through your knife blade. Start by drilling a hole through the tang, and line up one of your scales with the handle and drill through the scale. Make sure you are backing your scale with a piece of scrap plywood so it doesn’t split out when you drill through. Insert the rod through the tank and through the scale, plus 1/8″ as shown above. That’s where you want to end up eventually.

Put your second scale against the blade, add about 1/8″, and mark it with a pencil. You’ll use this later.

Do this two more times, and you should have one scale with holes, a blade with holes, and one scale without holes. Pull the rod from the holes if it’s still there, and use the blade as a template to mark the holes on the scale without holes. Make sure you’re drilling into the backside of the scale with the scale-oriented properly (point end toward the point).

Now reinsert the rod into the first hole on the outside of the first scale, through the handle, and through the backside of the scale you just drilled. It should be tight with your 1/4″ marking still 1/4″ from the surface of the scale. If it’s right, great; cut it off with a hacksaw and insert the rod into the next hole. If make take a bit of fussing to get it right, and if you need to drill a little to make things line up, go for it. Just try to keep the wood holes round. Once that one is in, go to the next hole closest to the blade, and repeat the process. Now separate the scales from the blade, leaving the rods in. A screwdriver or a knife can help.

Step 9: Attach your scales to your knife.

Step 9: Attach your scales to your knife. Mix a little two-part epoxy, about the size of a half-dollar, and spread it on one side of the knife blank. (Do not use five-minute epoxy. It’s weak and doesn’t give you time to work.) Place a scale on the epoxy. Repeat this process on the other side of the blade. Now slide your scales back on the knife blade and tap into place. You might have to use an open vise to allow you to tap the scales into place, but they should go on fairly easily.

Mix a little two-part epoxy, about the size of a half-dollar, and spread it on one side of the knife blank. (Do not use five-minute epoxy. It’s weak and doesn’t give you time to work.) Place a scale on the epoxy. Repeat this process on the other side of the blade.

Now slide your scales back on the knife blade and tap into place. You might have to use an open vise to allow you to tap the scales into place, but they should go on fairly easily.

After both scales are attached and you’re confident the scales are in the right place, put a clamp or two on the scales and tighten until you see a little epoxy bead form along the edge between the scale and the knife blank. This is called squeeze-out and is a sign that you have a good bond. Once it oozes, stop clamping. You want a little epoxy in the space. Note that there’s a lot more rod sticking out than 1/8″. That’s because I didn’t know how much I would need for a rivet, so there’s more like 1/4″ or more on each side.

After both scales are attached and you’re confident the scales are in the right place, put a clamp or two on the scales and tighten until you see a little epoxy bead form along the edge between the scale and the knife blank. This is called squeeze-out and is a sign that you have a good bond. Once it oozes, stop clamping. You want a little epoxy in the space.

Note that there’s a lot more rod sticking out than 1/8″. That’s because I didn’t know how much I would need for a rivet, so there’s more like 1/4″ or more on each side.

I dealt with the excess rod by filing it off. It’s soft so it didn’t take much.

I dealt with the excess rod by filing it off. It’s soft so it didn’t take much. Of course, you were smarter than me and benefited from my experience. You won’t have to do this.

Step 10: Pein your rivets.

Step 9: Pein your rivets

The worst part about building things by yourself is that sometimes you can’t take pictures of a particular step. So I will be as descriptive as possible. Place your knife on a hard surface such as a metal plate or an anvil if you’re lucky enough to have one or know someone that does. Using the round side of a ball pein hammer (it’s called a pein for a reason), tap your brass rod, moving the hits in a slight circular motion, not hitting the rod straight in the middle. This allows the metal to mushroom a little bit. Pein your rivet for a few minutes, turn your knife over and repeat. If the rods don’t appear to be equal on each side, tap the rod so it sticks out a little more on the other side.

Continue to tap, turning the knife often as the rods (now rivets) approach the handle. As the rivet touches the scales, tap a little harder and recess (slightly) the rivets. Keep going and do the other two.

Step 11: Shape and sand the handle.

Step 10: Shape the handle. Clamp the handle in a vise and begin shaping your handle. There’s no set way to do this, but I find a 4-in-hand or patternmaker’s rasp works great. Take it easy, running the file mostly up and down at a 45-degree angle to the blade. Work slowly. If you get to close to the blade with your rasp you can dull the rasp.

Clamp the handle in a vise and begin shaping your handle. There’s no set way to do this, but I find a 4-in-hand or patternmaker’s rasp works great. Take it easy, running the file mostly up and down at a 45-degree angle to the blade. Work slowly. If you get to close to the blade with your rasp you can dull the rasp.

As you continue to shape with your rasp, check the handle frequently to make sure it is symmetrical and fits your hand nicely. Go slow; it’s easier to take off than put back.

When your handle is the shape you want, sand it with a heavier grit sandpaper (80 or so), then gradually use finer and finer grits until the handle is a smooth as you want it to be. Go ahead and sand your rivet heads to flatten them a little too. The metal is soft and the sandpaper will cut the metal just fine.

When sanding wood, you can tell you’re ready for the next finer grit when you can see no sanding marks from the previous grit. In other words, when you go to a 120 or 150-grit from an 80-grit, you should see no sanding marks that are from the 80-grit. If you move to finer grit too quickly, you’ll have more work to do when you step down for the next sanding.

Step 12: Finish your handle.

I like oiled finishes, so I used a hempseed oil to finish the handle. You can use whatever suits your fancy.

I like oiled finishes, so I used a hempseed oil to finish the handle. You can use whatever suits your fancy. The more coats of oil, the richer the look and you’ll be providing a lot of protection to your wood.

Step 13: Sharpen your blade.

Wrap cardboard or leather around your finely sanded handle and secure with duct tape. Clamp the knife handle in your vise with the edge to be sharpened facing up. Put on your hearing protection. Using a file, start filing up and down the blade edges, holding the file at an approximately 20–22-degree angle to the blade. Visualize this distance by cutting a 45-degree angle in half. Do not drag the file, as it only cuts on the pushing stroke. Don’t file in one spot too much or you’ll create a low spot, which means a do-over if you want a good, true edge.

Wrap cardboard or leather around your finely sanded handle and secure with duct tape. Clamp the knife handle in your vise with the edge to be sharpened facing up. Put on your safety glasses and hearing protection. Using a file, start filing up and down the blade edges, holding the file at an approximately 20–22-degree angle to the blade. Visualize this distance by cutting a 45-degree angle in half. Do not drag the file, as it only cuts on the pushing stroke. Don’t file in one spot too much or you’ll create a low spot, which means a do-over if you want a good, true edge.

Do a few strokes on one side, then on the other. You’ll see your nice flat edge disappear as you remove metal. Watching this edge is a good indicator of how even your filing is. Most people (myself included) tend to screw up the tip by either not filing it enough, or letting the angle drift toward 25…28…30… Be careful and go slow. Stop when you have a filed edge that looks clean and straight.

Do a few strokes on one side, then on the other. You’ll see your nice flat edge disappear as you remove metal. Watching this edge is a good indicator of how even your filing is. Most people (myself included) tend to screw up the tip by either not filing it enough, or letting the angle drift toward 25…28…30… Be careful and go slow. Stop when you have a filed edge that looks clean and straight.

If you do mess this up, file the blade flat like you did in Step 5 and start over. Depending on the size of the blade, the tip may vibrate. Clamping a small C-clamp with a piece of scrap wood on the back of the blade can lessen vibrations (and keep your dogs, cats, and other creatures within earshot from howling at the sound).

Step 14: Hone the blade. You can use any sort of sharpening method: Diamond stones, Arkansas stones, Japanese wet stones, ceramic sticks; it doesn’t matter. You’re just refining the edge. When you’re done, cut something (preferably not yourself) to test the blade.

View more: Best oscillating multi tool reviews

Tips to Cutting Plywood with a Circular Saw

Today I’d share a few of my tips on how to use your circular saw to cut plywood, and showcase the miracle tool that will change your circular saw into a plywood ripping wonder.

plywood-cut-circular-saw

Use the Right Blade

The best tip is to first upgrade to the right blade. Your saw probably came with a blade designed to make fast, aggressive cuts in construction lumber, not splinter-free cuts in sheet goods. So, pick up a carbide-tipped blade that’s made for making fine cuts. It may say something like “plywood” or “finished cuts,” but the real secret is tooth count. A higher tooth count will give you a smoother cut. Blades come in different diameters to match your circular saw, so make sure you get the right one.

Finished Side Down

Next, make sure you accurately orient the sheet as you’re cutting. A circular saw cuts on the upstroke. That means the blade enters the wood from below, and exits at the top. That’s where most tear out occurs. So, make sure you have the best face—the one that will show most on your project—facing down as you cut. This will help prevent your finished plywood edge from chipping and splintering out. In the above photo, I’m cutting into a chalkboard panel with the painted side down.

Adjust Your Saw Blade Depth

Adjust your circular saw cutting depth to be just below the material. I do about 1/4″ – so for ripping 3/4″ thick plywood, I set my blade to about 1″ depth.

Supporting the Plywood

Finally, when you cut sheet goods, you need to support the workpiece as you work – on both sides of the cut.

Long 2x4s over sawhorses work great – and you can cut a tiny bit into the tops of them as you cut your plywood. I actually keep several 2xs in my shop just for this task.

But my favorite for cutting sheet goods is a sheet of thick rigid foam insulation. Just lay the plywood piece on the foam, and start cutting. The foam will support the plywood and you can cut into the top of the foam (as opposed to the top of your work table). Just make certain the piece you are cutting is not going to move on you as you work.

Using a Guide

It is very necessary to get accurate, straight cuts. But this is very hard to do freehand with a circular saw. When I need a perfect cut with a circular saw, I always use a guide.

The simplest guide is just clamping a long, straight edge to the sheet of plywood, positioned so the foot of your circular saw follows the straight edge. Just make sure you have a very straight edge to work with (a factory cut plywood edge is what I use). However, if you are doing a lot of plywood or sheet goods ripping with a circular saw, I recommend buying a saw guide.

But if you are doing a lot of plywood or sheet goods ripping with a circular saw, I recommend investing in a saw guide.

The one I use and love is the Kreg Rip-Cut™ . It’s inexpensive, and it connects to almost any circular saw and features an aluminum guide rail, an easy-to-read adjustable scale, and a reversible guide arm that works whether you’re right- or left-handed and whether your blade is on the right or the left side of the saw.

It’s an incredibly easy, precise, and affordable way to break down large panels for almost any project.
There are also situations where it makes more sense to run the saw over the plywood as opposed to running the plywood through the table saw. Once we needed to rip dozens of sheets of 3/4″ thick plywood into 12″ strips. Instead of handling each piece of plywood four times through the table saw, we clamped multiple pieces of plywood together and ran the lighter weight saw over the plywood using the Rip-Cut.

Whether you are tackling a full project out of plywood, or just need to accurately cut some 1/4″ plywood for the back of a project, I hope these tips will make building faster and easier for you!

View more: oscillating multi tool uses

Paint Concrete Flooring

Would you like to include a new dimension to your basement or other space that has concrete floors? You can use paint to rework your ordinary concrete floors into vivid, colorful surfaces. Not only will paint add to the attractiveness of your concrete floor, it will also help to shield in opposition to moisture related troubles this kind of as mold and mildew You can let your thoughts operate wild when painting your concrete flooring. Examine the potential of employing a assortment of various colors to assist open up the space or you can go with a thing more ornamental this kind of as interesting fake finishes.

Prior to painting your concrete flooring, it really is crucial to appropriate any moisture problems that might avert the paint from sticking to your floors. If there are critical moisture difficulties these kinds of as h2o seepage, this requirements to be corrected and the floors allowed to dry entirely before painting. You also need to be confident your concrete flooring will take paint. Some concrete floors have hardeners additional to them which may prevent paint adhesion.. To proper this difficulty, you can use an acrylic concrete sealant ahead of starting the painting procedure.
This is how to paint concrete flooring:

Extensively thoroughly clean the concrete floor.

Cleanse the concrete flooring to be painted with a concentrated detergent and h2o solution to remove any filth and grease. If you have any locations of mildew or mildew, it’s greatest to stick to up with a weak concentration of bleach and h2o. Be certain to use great air flow when doing work with bleach and do not blend it with any other chemical substances. The cleansing process demands to be repeated right up until your concrete floors are totally free of dust and grease. If grease problems persist in spite of repeated cleaning with the detergent resolution, you are going to need to purchase a heavy duty degreaser from your hardware retailer.

Let your concrete flooring to dry.

It really is important that your concrete flooring be completely dry prior to making use of paint.

Test the texture of your concrete flooring.

As formerly mentioned, some concrete floors have hardeners extra which trigger them to resist paint. Test the texture of your flooring. To take paint readily, your floors must have the feel of sand paper. Attempt putting a drop of water on the floor, if the water forms a bead, your concrete flooring may not accept paint in its current state. In this scenario, you’ll need to have to use an acid etcher to get ready the floors prior to painting. Right after etching, your concrete flooring will require to be cleaned again to take away any acid residue.

Fill in any pores, cracks, or holes.

Use a resin filler to fill in any open pores, cracks, or holes ahead of painting your concrete flooring. A resin filler can be purchased from your local hardward shop.

Select your paint.

It’s very best to decide on a paint created for concrete to stop the probability of peeling. Most latex paints will perform nicely for this function, despite the fact that they could react with rubber. If you are painting an location where you store items with rubber tires, you may want to elevate them off of the floor. Test with your nearby hardware store to get support in picking the greatest paint for your specific concrete flooring.

Paint your concrete flooring.

After making use of a primer, use a roller to paint on many coats of your picked paint colour. Don’t forget, you never need to have to settle for a strong, one particular color floor. There are a selection of artistic seems to be you can give your concrete flooring making use of special brushes and stencils. Painting concrete flooring can bring out the artist in you.

Seal the paint.

Use a sealer to safeguard your recently painted floors subsequent the guidelines on the bottle. Permit this to dry extensively prior to walking on your new floors.

Now you can stand back and admire your recently painted concrete flooring. When you paint concrete floors, it presents the whole place a new search and experience that you can take pleasure in for many many years to come.